Blog Post

I Soaked in the Deepest Hot Spring in the World — Here’s How You Can, Too

By Amanda Eyre Ward 

Published in Travel + Leisure on December 26, 2022


I traveled all the way to Colorado just to take a bath. And it was worth it.

COURTESY OF SPRINGS RESORT & SPA

Like most pandemic-weary humans, I've been seeking ways to de-stress just about anywhere I can find it. I am lucky enough to have a bathtub at home and love to impulse-buy bubbles and salts. I'm a novelist and not a medical professional, but I can attest to the fact that a lavender bath salt seems to work wonders. So, when I read that The Springs Resort & Spa in Pagosa Springs, Colorado, hired Dr. Marcus Coplin, a naturopathic medical doctor, as its first on-site medical director, I was intrigued. Dr. Coplin's goal is to help guests understand the power of mineral-rich water to treat ailments from insomnia to arthritis. And so, I thought, I enjoy books about Victorian-era heroines "taking the waters" in Switzerland or Budapest, could the age-old cure work for people like me?


At more than 1,002 feet deep, the Mother Spring aquifer is the deepest geothermal hot spring in the world. The Ute People discovered the spring hundreds of years ago, and the waters have been used for healing ever since — indirectly. You see, the Mother Spring itself is too dangerous for people as it comes with a surface temperature of around 131 degrees Fahrenheit, making it far too warm for human exposure. But, its waters are pumped into the pools around the spa, which come with varying temperatures to suit everyone's mood. The waters contain 13 minerals, including potassium, magnesium, zinc, lithium, iron, and manganese, which the hotel alleges can promote healthy skin, lower blood pressure, strengthen bones and muscles, increase energy, and much more. 


When I first arrived at The Springs Resort & Spa, a resort featuring 79 rooms and suites and 25 soaking pools, I made a beeline to the Mother Spring. There, I took a deep, chest-expanding breath and inhaled the scent of sulfur mixed with chilly mountain air. This was when I realized why the Ute who came before us called this place "Pah Gosa,” which loosely translates to "water with a bad smell.” Don't worry. The smell dissipates as quickly as it comes, allowing you to focus on the task at hand: total relaxation. 


Yes, the bubbling, azure aquifer at the resort is a marvel. Though, you don't even have to be a guest to experience it, as the soaking pools fed by its depths can be accessed for free along the San Juan River in downtown Pagosa Springs or by hiking to the Piedra River Hot Springs or the more remote Rainbow Hot Springs. 

COURTESY OF SPRINGS RESORT & SPA

After meeting the mother, I made my way to my spacious suite, where I discovered an array of wellness goodies and several "soaking guides” penned by Dr. Coplin. The guides suggested just how long to soak and how to make the most of the experience — including what to eat before and after and what temperature is optimal — along with explanations of what happens in the body during contrast bathing. 


"It is incredibly beneficial for the person soaking to understand how the different temperature levels can affect their body,” Coplin shared, "so they can journey through multiple stages of hydrothermal self-guided wellness to receive long-lasting and exceptional results." Next to the guides sat a "cell phone sleep sack,” which felt like just the right mix of suggestion and command to turn off the rest of the world and settle into this restorative experience. 


According to my personalized soaking guide, I was meant to eat a nutritious dinner with protein, heavy greens, and high fiber. That was easy, thanks to The Barefoot Grill, the on-site restaurant located next to the soaking pools. Its menu came with two sides — Comfort Food and Health/Wellness Food. I went for a bit of both, ordering a burger with a delicious kale salad and one of the resort's divine mocktails.


Then, as my guide suggested, I made my way to the spring, which sat just outside my window, to experience its magic for myself. 

COURTESY OF SPRINGS RESORT & SPA

It was evening as I approached the soaking pools, selecting the warmest one. I eased myself into the water and exhaled as it surrounded me. I lay back and looked at the stars; my muscles seemed to ease one by one. The mineral-rich water pressed against my skin. It felt like the best bath in the world, the crisp air on my face a tonic. I switched between various temperature pools for a while, and when I returned to my room, I felt peaceful.


Sitting in the warm water isn't the only way to unwind here. The resort also offers wellness activities ranging from aqua yoga to sound baths, a "Hang Time" experience (a sound bath while hanging in a hammock underneath Aspen trees), and more. The resort also offers a guided contrast bathing ritual called the Warrior Plunge, which involves alternating soaking in hot water, then dunking into a freezing cold plunge pool to help shock your system. According to the resort, this therapy "increases blood circulation, flushes the body of toxins, and reduces muscle inflammation. It is a natural way to exercise your vascular system by expanding and constricting your blood vessels." There is some science to back up these claims. However, the clinical jury appears to still be out on if it will cure you of all that ails you. But, the most important takeaway is, do you feel better after? If you do, that's what matters. 


Though the resort was the main attraction on my trip, I'd be remiss not to say that the Pagosa Springs area has a lot more going on outside the property, too. From hot air balloon rides over the Pagosa Mountains with Rocky Mountain Balloon Adventures to art galleries like Two Old Crows, it's a destination worthy of exploration. While I didn't want to leave the soaking pools, the town's delicious dining options, like Kip's GrillOld Miner'sAlley House Grill, and Root Coffee, beckoned. 

COURTESY OF SPRINGS RESORT & SPA

I left The Springs Resort & Spa with the feeling I came for: renewal. And yes, I took the soaking guides and some bath salts home with me to try to recreate the magic, though I doubt I'll ever be as successful in my tiny little tub. Dr. Coplin added that he hoped guests would return again and again to The Springs, allowing the mineral-rich soaking pools, nourishing food, enjoyable classes, and spa treatments to help recover from the stresses of daily life and address complex health issues like arthritis and anxiety. You know, just like going home again and getting a warm hug from a mother figure. 


Learn more about The Springs and book a visit here


Read the full article here.

no soda
By lemaster 12 Mar, 2016
For years the detrimental effects of aspartame and other non-caloric artificial sweeteners have been preached about by those of us in the natural health world. Althoug h it seemed like a good idea at the time (calories = fat; fat = bad therefore 0 calories = good), new evidence is showing that the mechanism for why we MUST avoid ALL non-caloric sweeteners is more complex and broad reaching than originally thought. In a new study released in the prestigious scientific journal Nature, the GI flora of mice was examined and found to alter with the use of non-caloric sweeteners. This altered GI flora creates conditions within the body of the mice that actually make glucose harder to take into the cell. What does that all mean? Non-caloric sweeteners are causing glucose intolerance; Diet Coke is CAUSING diabetes! In the past I have written about, and if you have come in to my office you have certainly heard me preach about the benefits of a healthy intestinal flora. The microbiome of our GI system is foundational in setting us up for long term health and avoiding many chronic diseases such as arthritis, diabetes and even cancer! But newer research has noted that the quality of our GI flora may also contribute to our ability to lose weight! Bad bacteria lead to weight gain! The new metric can thus be: artificial sweetener = bad bacteria, bad bacteria = fat, artificial sweeteners = fat! We are probably a long way off before Coca-cola loses a law suit regarding the false advertising claims of their “diet” drinks, but I hope you can see why putting these chemically derived sweeteners into your body actually predisposes you to a host of terrible health challenges. And whats more?? The bacteria in our GI system actually have influence on our cravings. This means that, when we cultivate a healthy microbiome, rich with diverse probiotics that feed of fiber rich vegetables, healthy vitamin rich fats and complex mineral dense carbohydrates, we begin to crave these foods more and more. BUT, when we have an altered microbiome from over exposure to diet coke and other non-caloric sweeteners, the bacteria in our GI actually trick our brains into craving these things more and more. The altered microbiome has you addicted to and craving for diet coke! Fortunately there is a lot you can do. The first and foremost step – stop it already with the diet coke! It just aint worth it! After that, rebuilding your microbiome to serve your highest health is a process that can successfully begin. I can send out for tests from my office that will give us a profile of all the bacteria in your intestinal microbiome. From there we can create a tailored herbal regimen to eradicate the non-helpful strains of bacteria. As we do this we can rebuild the GI terrain and recolonize with the best in organ specific nutrients, and strong researched probiotic intensive therapy. A series of in-office biophysical treatments will ensure that the circulation of blood and the nerve function of the GI tract is restored to its highest function to best support this process . After having dealt with the pro-inflammatory, diet-coke mutated bacteria world, a strong start is the best way to ensure success. I also encourage all my patients to maintain their GI microbiome relationship and health through a home practice of eating lacto-fermented foods such as sauerkraut, kefir, and kombucha. It is my deepest pleasure when I can share a bite of wild sauerkraut or some home-brew kombucha that my patients bring into their visits. Drop me a line for some ideas on how to start your own ferments today. And steer clear of the diet drinks, you never get something for nothing in this world!
pills
By lemaster 12 Mar, 2016
New research is showing that long term use of sleep and anti-anxiety medication predisposes the development of Alzheimer's disease. The drugs we're talking about here are benzodiazepines, known as diazepam, clonazepam, and lorazepam (among others). This class of drug works by enhancing the neuron receptor binding and effect of GABA, a sedative neurotransmitter. Once on the receptor sight, GABA will work to calm the body, alleviating the symptoms of anxiety and insomnia. But now researchers are asking, do these drugs have a long term adverse effect to the mental status of the person taking them. Simply put, do they lead to dementia? The answer is not entirely clear. One thing for sure is that patients who have been experiencing anxiety or insomnia and have medicated with benzodiazepines are experiencing higher rates of Alzheimer's and Alzheimer's like dementia. The question becomes, are the drugs causing the dementia, or does having the symptoms that are being medicated by the drugs signal a disposition? Regardless, this raises an excellent point which Naturopathic healthcare is expertly poised to address. Pharmaceutical drugs, though incredibly effective for short term or emergency interventions, are absolutely ineffective at treating a long-term, or chronic illness. Rather than providing actual solutions to the underlying cause of symptoms, as naturopathic healthcare does, pharmaceutical drugs simply mask the symptoms. As we see with the example of benzodiazepines and dementia, the long-term masking of a symptom can lead to results more destructive than the original symptom. This is the fundamental difference between conventional pharmaceutical management of disease and the naturopathic healthcare approach to the healing of a disease. In the example discussed, the drug will take the anxiety away, it will help get you hours of sleep. However, the disturbance – the underlying cause behind the anxiety or the insomnia –remains, and may in fact be silently creating issues that do not manifest until years later, in this case as irreversible dementia. Symptoms are always a warning sign pointing to something deeper. Just because the drug is good at taking away the sign does not mean it can take away the danger at which the sign was pointing. Naturopathic healthcare provides actual solutions to the underlying cause of the symptoms. The cause may be a hormonal imbalance, unmanaged stress, an overburdened toxic system, a nutritional deficiency, or unregulated inflammation – very likely, the symptoms are caused a combination of those factors. Whatever the cause is, healing it at the root is the only way to ensure long-term successful treatment. Whatever your symptoms may be, an in-depth examination at my office can help to unlock their underlying causes, and initiate a treatment that sets you up for optimal health in the years to come. The treatments I use are all based in restoring function to the body, balancing the neurochemistry and biochemistry through nutritional pre-loading, and removing the triggers of persistent inflammation. Unfortunately, pharmaceuticals are being used for the long term treatment of many chronic diseases, as with benzodiazepine use and Alzheimer's – which, as we’ve now seen, leads to troubling long term results. Without proper treatment of the underlying cause of symptoms, the disturbance to the body will find another (and typically more devastating) expression. There are many conditions today that are treatable and reversible without the use of pharmaceuticals. Call my office to set up a free consultation, and we’ll discuss a pharmaceutical-free plan for your care.
ice bucket challenge
By lemaster 12 Mar, 2016
This past couple of weeks I have watched as all over the internet, friends, family members, celebrities and politicians alike, have taken action to show their support for ALS research. The challenge – post a video of yourself getting doused by a bucket of icy cold water. Though it seems shocking and is perceived as an extreme thing to do to one's self, ice water actually has an incredible health benefit. Cold water therapies are a crucial part of the full spectrum of biophysical treatments that naturopathic doctors use to activate and encourage the physiologic regulation and biochemical stimulation of our patients. As a naturopath, every treatment I use for my patients is geared toward this end of activating the organs, purifying the blood and regulating the nervous energy of their system. Hydrotherapy is a gentle and powerful way of activating these systems; gentle in application, powerful in effect. Cold water therapies stem from the Bavarian tradition of Wasser-Kur (water cure). This therapy was made popular by a farmer by the name of Vincenz Priessnitz. Priessnitz observed, at the edge of his farm an injured stag would return to a cold stream every day in order to soak in the cold water. After many days of doing this, the stag emerged from the cold water healed, and bounded off. Later, after sustaining a major injury himself and being written off by the regional physicians, Priessnitz remembered this experience and would treat himself with wraps of cold water, completely healing his “incurable” injury. He went on to share this treatment, which grew into a large center where people of all classes from all over Europe, would come to take the cure. Father Sebastian Kneipp, a priest from the region, further systematized this treatment, and made it popular with his book, My Water Cure. His institution was also widely popular, successfully curing thousands of patients with a wide variety of complicated illnesses. Kneipp trained the physicians who would eventually bring the system to the United States, where under the influence of the evolving scientific field, it emerged as modern naturopathic medicine. So, you ask, how exactly is the Ice Bucket Challenge going to keep me healthy? The fact is you already know! Everyone has had a hard morning at one time or another. You know the morning I am talking about, up early to catch a flight or help a friend move, compounded with a late night previously. As you fell asleep you did some quick math convincing yourself that you might just get one REM cycle, and anyway you could catch up on the ZZZ's on the plane/passenger seat of your friend's truck.... anyway, that first action as you groggily admire your bed head in the bathroom mirror is to splash some cold water on your face. Invigorating, is usually the qualifier used to describe this experience, and rightly so. The cold water creates a temporary shock to the system, that wakes you up, stimulates the circulation and activates the nerves. You feel awake, vital and alive. Short cold water immersions, a la the ice bucket challenge, can act in much the same way, although when applied to the whole body the action is more global. This means that the entire system, all the nerves, the circulatory system and the organs are shocked into a higher state of alert. The magic is in what happens next... After you do a brief cold water immersion, your body is jump started into action to counter act the cold water. In doing so all sorts of reflex reactions take place and continue on well after the cold water is no longer. This includes, immune stimulation, hormone balancing, nervous relaxation, increased organ function and better circulation and detoxification. Hydrotherapy treatments in my office are aimed at just this. With regular and ongoing treatment, sick bodies are guided back into correct physiologic functioning. Added to this treatment are herbal, nutritional, vitamin and mineral components specifically chosen to support the regaining of optimal biophysical function. The best part of water therapy is, you can do it at home as part of your daily routine! I have all my patients, as part of their ongoing total health program, end their showers with a cold rinse. Ideally your shower will look like this..... Warm up, soap up, rinse, cold rinse for 30 seconds making sure to get the arm pits, groin, and lower back over the kidneys and adrenal glands. Then repeat (with out without soap – your call) two more times for a total of thee cold rinses. End the shower on cold, and you can skip your morning coffee or tea! Every one of my patients says the same thing – Doc, I was very skeptical when you told me to do this. In fact, it took me a week to work up the courage. But, you know, I did it, I do it every day, and now I love it! The cold doesn’t even bother me anymore! It really works. The cold shower makes you feel vital and energized, makes weather variations less severe, and serves as one of the best preventive measures against cold and flu season that I know of! In fact, a German study followed two groups of medical students (who are categorically known for having stress induced poor immune function). One group did the shower I described above every day, the other did not. Well, basically, one group got sick and the other did not. Can you guess which one was which? In my office there are a lot of ways this treatment is modified and specified to treat various conditions. But as a prevention method for getting sick, and as part of an optimal health program, the hot/cold shower is something you can start today!
pulse
By lemaster 12 Mar, 2016
I just completed an intensive multi-seasonal mentorship with Will Morris, master pulse diagnostician. By attuning to slight variations in different positions of the radial pulse, pathologies of different organs and different regions of the body present themselves, sometimes even before the symptoms of that pathology are present. With the insight of what the pulse has to reveal, great specificity is used to determine which herbs will combine in a formula to best suit your health needs. The lineage of pulse reading I was trained in has been passed down through families for many generations and predates the Chinese communist revolution and it's effect on Chinese medicine. This has allowed for the information to be transmitted in "the old way," and for that information to take deep root. I have a lot of gratitude for my teacher, and his teachers, and the lineage bearers before them. I look forward to being able to offer this old way of healing in my office. Come by to see what your pulse reveals about your inner universe.
meal
By lemaster 12 Mar, 2016
Many people hear the term "elimination diet" and immediately think, I won't be able to eat anything! In my practice I term this treatment the Illumination Diet. The true nature of this diet is to shed light on how foods react with our individualized biochemistry. Once we are able to identify hidden dietary triggers of persistent inflammation, and immune system dysregulation, the foundational work for reversing and healing many chronic ailments can begin. Often times this intervention is the difference between a lifetime of managing an illness and the beginning of a life lead towards optimal health. I am a lover of quality food, both from the farm and on the plate. The illumination diet does not need to be boring in order to work. Pictured here is a dinner of braised lamb chops over a roasted cauliflower mash with a side of kale-cashew butter. Completely on the program and completely delicious. Stay tuned for more creative and delicious ideas for eating well on the program. Make an appointment to come in and talk with me about how the illumination diet can be a powerful tool for your own health.
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